This mountain requires no introduction. Its unique and beautiful form, its importance in the history of alpinism and the dramatic story of its first ascent, guarantee its place in the mountaineering Hall of Fame. Our desire (Klemen’s and mine) was to climb Mattehorn from Italian side via Lion ridge.
Unfortunattely, our ascent ended on Pic Tynall (4241 m). Because of the tough orientation, fresh snow and snow cornices we lost a lot of time. It was a hard decision to let go this beauty, but I think it was a safe one. Nevertheless it was an unforgetable journey with great company, that I will always remember.
We arrived to Cervinia after seven hours of driving and spent a night in a tent near the parking spot for campers. We woke up quite early and when we stepped out of the tent, it hit us. This enormous, beautiful peak was almost touching the sky.
After a coffee, we took a cablecar to Plan Maison and from there first walked to the Abruzzi hut and then to Carrel hut at 3835m. The walk offered us some snow, loose rocks and also some easy climbing. The most interesting part was a steep wall (6b), that used to be a nice chimney. Eventhough this wall is equiped with fixed ropes, the climb was very demanding and a lot of strength was needed. I was completely exhausted when we reached the hut after seven hours from Plan Maison.
There were only two people in the hut, that must have seen us coming and prepared us a hot tea. After dinner the clouds started to arrive and it was time to sleep.
The plan was to wake up at 3 and leave at 4 am. Right above the hut climbing started over the first steep tower that was followed by some easy rock section. However we had some difficulties finding our way up to the ridge. After we climbed the Grande Corde, we followed the ridge to the summit of the Tyndall peak. This part was covered with some fresh snow and snow cornices that slowed us down. We reached the top of the Tyndall peak and from there abseiled into the notch bellow Matterhon. We could see the last part of the ascent to the summit, which still seemed a long way to go.
Late hour, tiredness and changing weather led to the decision to turn and descend to the Carrel hut.
Next time, DEFINITELY!
